The revival of nearly extinct native grape varieties is one of the most exciting developments in Italian wine today, fueled by history, biodiversity efforts, and growing consumer preferences. Many of these forgotten grapes fell out of favor due to shifting agricultural practices and the global rise of high-yield international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. But more and more, wine consumers are seeking bottles that tell the story of where they come from.
In his book, Native Wine Grapes of Italy, Ian D'Agata writes that wines made with local grape varieties are special: "To Italians, they represent Italy just as famous monuments, natural landmarks, or local recipes do."
One producer at the forefront of this rediscovery is San Felice, a historic estate in Chianti Classico with a long track record of research and innovation. In 1968, it helped launch the Super Tuscan movement with Vigorello, a blend that includes Cabernet and Merlot, and later introduced the region’s first single-vineyard Chianti Classico, Poggio Rosso Gran Selezione.
That spirit of experimentation continues today with San Felice’s groundbreaking Vitiarium project, which, in the mid-1980s, began identifying and reintroducing nearly forgotten grape varieties. The collection includes four labels: Borgo Chianti Classico DOCG, La Pieve Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione, Pugnitello Toscana IGT, and In Avane Chardonnay Toscana IGT.
Path to Pugnitello
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