lisa denning

  1. San Felice’s Vitiarium: A Taste of Heritage, Terroir, and Exploration

    San Felice’s Vitiarium: A Taste of Heritage, Terroir, and Exploration

    The revival of nearly extinct native grape varieties is one of the most exciting developments in Italian wine today, fueled by history, biodiversity efforts, and growing consumer preferences. Many of these forgotten grapes fell out of favor due to shifting agricultural practices and the global rise of high-yield international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. But more and more, wine consumers are seeking bottles that tell the story of where they come from.

    In his book, Native Wine Grapes of Italy, Ian D'Agata writes that wines made with local grape varieties are special: "To Italians, they represent Italy just as famous monuments, natural landmarks, or local recipes do."

    One producer at the forefront of this rediscovery is San Felice, a historic estate in Chianti Classico with a long track record of research and innovation. In 1968, it helped launch the Super Tuscan movement with Vigorello, a blend that includes Cabernet and Merlot, and later introduced the region’s first single-vineyard Chianti Classico, Poggio Rosso Gran Selezione.

    That spirit of experimentation continues today with San Felice’s groundbreaking Vitiarium project, which, in the mid-1980s, began identifying and reintroducing nearly forgotten grape varieties. The collection includes four labels:  Borgo Chianti Classico DOCG, La Pieve Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione, Pugnitello Toscana IGT, and In Avane Chardonnay Toscana IGT. 

    Path to Pugnitello

    ...

  2. A New Team, A Timeless Elegance: Biondi-Santi’s Latest Release

    A New Team, A Timeless Elegance: Biondi-Santi’s Latest Release

    In the world of wine, few names carry the weight of Biondi-Santi. The estate gave birth to Brunello in 1888, setting the standard for the wines of Montalcino. For over a century, generations of the Biondi-Santi family produced austere, long-lived...

  3. Social Equity at Santa Julia: A Conversation With Julia Zuccardi

    Social Equity at Santa Julia: A Conversation With Julia Zuccardi

    When you pick up a bottle of wine, do you ever stop to consider the values of the people behind the label? For most of us, it’s all about the taste—but there’s often a deeper story to discover. At Argentina’s Bodega Santa Julia, the Zuccardi family goes above and beyond, creating eco-friendly wines while making a meaningful impact on their community.

    The Zuccardi family's wine story is deeply rooted in Argentina's Mendoza region. They own over 800 hectares of vineyards and two well-known wineries: Bodega Zuccardi in the Uco Valley and Bodega Santa Julia in Maipú. Over three generations, they have built a strong reputation for quality wines and respectful winemaking traditions.

    It all began in 1968 when Alberto Zuccardi, an engineer, bought land in Maipú to test an irrigation system. This technical project unexpectedly turned into a family passion for winemaking. By the 1980s, Alberto's son José Alberto took the reins, naming the winery after his daughter Julia and steering it towards sustainable production and organic farming. 

    Caring for Land and People

    But the Zuccardi family’s vision reaches far beyond environmental concerns—it’s also rooted in social and cultural responsibility, a commitment championed by the late Emma Zuccardi and carried forward today by her granddaughter.

    “My grandparents were very focused on caring for the land and the people,” said Julia Zuccardi. “My grandfather was very connected to nature. He believed our responsibility was to take care of the land and give future generations the same or better than we have.”

    While Alberto’s work in organic and regenerative farming laid the foundation for environmental stewardship, Emma pioneered the winery’s social mission.

    “My grandmother was very connected to people,” Zuccardi explained. “She believed in caring for our community and always wanted to provide our workers and their families with the tools to improve their quality of life.” 

    During a recent visit to Mendoza, Julia Zuccardi welcomed our group of writers for a leisurely lunch at Pan y Oliva, a cozy restaurant in Santa Julia's Visitor’s Center. Over plates of burrata with roasted tomatoes, honey-glazed salmon, and homemade pasta, Zuccardi shared family stories, many about her grandmother Emma, whose community-focused vision shaped the winery's social sustainability. Afterward, she took us on a tour of the facilities, including a daycare, sewing center, and adult school—each stop showing how dedicated the Zuccardis are to improving the lives of their workers, their families, and the broader community.

    Education and Empowerment

    Social equity may be a common focus for companies today, often supported by Human Resources departments, but Emma Zuccardi was ahead of her time. "Fifty years ago, my grandmother didn’t know anything about corporate social responsibility," Zuccardi explained. "But she was very active and passionate, creating what we now call cultural centers."

    The two cultural centers, one at the Maipú vineyards and the other in Santa Rosa, offer adult education programs that let workers complete their studies without compromising their incomes. Each center also provide various facilities, including a gym, library, and computer access, benefiting employees and the local community.

    “In the beginning, my grandmother faced challenges with the adult school,” Zuccardi recounted. “Classes were held after work, and people often quit school to care for their families. So, she revised the program. Now, classes are held during work hours twice a week, and we pay workers to attend. We believe that if they have a better quality of life and improve their education, it’s better for our company, too. It’s like a circle.”

    Today, more than 100 people graduate from these programs annually, both Santa Julia employees and those from the surrounding community. “The idea is to impact not only the people who work with us but the whole community,” Zuccardi said.

    The cultural center isn’t just about education either—it’s a place for economic empowerment, especially for women in the community. Emma saw a need for women to have financial independence and professional skills, so she launched a sewing workshop where they could learn a trade and earn an income to support their families by making and selling shirts, pants, uniforms, aprons, and more.

    “Many of these women used to stay home, but now they have jobs and can contribute financially to their families,” Zuccardi told us. “At first, my grandmother had to educate them on the importance of their work. When the women said they needed to stop at 11 to make lunch for their husbands, she would laugh and tell them, ‘No, you don’t. You have a job, and your husband can make his own lunch.’”

    This commitment to people and the community was formally recognized in 2001 when Bodega Santa Julia became the first winery in Argentina to receive Fair for Life certification. This distinction acknowledges their efforts to combat unsafe working conditions, child labor, and other injustices while promoting fair working conditions.

    A New Vision for Parenting

    The daycare program at Santa Julia was another of Emma’s groundbreaking initiatives. It supports both parents’ professional lives, especially women, who often have to choose between motherhood and working outside the home. With facilities that range from infant care to after-school programs, the daycare gives women freedom and equality in a supportive environment. 

    “My grandmother was a visionary,” Julia says. “She started the daycare many years ago so parents could work, knowing their children were well cared for. We have about 60 children here, and it’s open to the community, so children from all backgrounds mix. This diversity is important to us, and we are proud because it reduces social distinctions among the kids.”

    “The kids are being taken care of during working hours, yet their parents can still come by and see them. And mothers can breastfeed their infants in the middle of the day since we have a special room for that,” said Zuccardi.

    Importantly, all programs are operated in partnership with the government which contributes to some of the salaries. However, the Zuccardis cover the rest and take on the costs of construction, equipment, and materials. “We feel it’s the right thing to do,” Zuccardi shared.

    Wine as Culture

    As our tour wound down, Julia told us about the winery’s art gallery, another passion project of her grandmother’s: “She loved art and wanted a place to showcase local artists because, as we always say, wine is culture. When you talk about wine, you talk about culture.”

    The gallery includes pieces by local artists, including colorful works by Emili...

  4. Bringing Wine to Life: Inside Daniel Johnnes’s World of Wine Celebrations

    Bringing Wine to Life: Inside Daniel Johnnes’s World of Wine Celebrations

    "Wine is all about celebration,” said Daniel Johnnes during a recent wine pairing dinner at Charlie Bird in lower Manhattan. "The joy is in sharing it with neighbors and the community." Johnnes is the man behind the world-renowned La Paulée fe...

  5. Weed & Wine: Love, Legacy, and Land—A Conversation with Filmmaker Rebecca Richman Cohen

    Weed & Wine: Love, Legacy, and Land—A Conversation with Filmmaker Rebecca Richman Cohen

    Weed & Wine is a documentary that explores universal themes of family, legacy, and sustainability. Emmy-nominated filmmaker Rebecca Richman Cohen invites viewers into the lives of two families: the Jodreys in Humboldt, California, and the Thibons in Rhône Valley, France.

    As the Jodreys transition from black market to legal cannabis cultivation, the Thibons continue to care for their biodynamic vineyard, a tradition that has been passed down through generations. Both families face unique challenges, but what binds them is their passion for their craft and their struggle to protect what they’ve built for future generations.

    Grape Collective spoke with Cohen to learn more about the making of Weed & Wine and the stories that shaped it.

    Lisa Denning: What inspired you to make a documentary that explores parallels between the cannabis and wine industries?

    ...

  6. The Malbec Maverick: Paul Hobbs' Vision for Argentine Wine

    The Malbec Maverick: Paul Hobbs' Vision for Argentine Wine

    The story of Malbec in Argentina is one of dramatic ups and downs. From its introduction in the mid-19th century to its near disappearance in the mid-20th century and its subsequent resurgence as Argentina's flagship wine, Malbec has shown itself to be resilient and adaptable. One of the key figures in Malbec's comeback is Paul Hobbs, a visionary winemaker, consultant, and winery owner, who recognized Malbec's ability to reflect Mendoza's varied landscapes. His work, together with others, has helped put the grape and Argentina on the worldwide wine map.

    From Apples to Grapes

    Paul Hobbs grew up on his family's fruit farm in upstate New York. Little did he know that these early experiences in the orchards would lay the foundation for his future career. 

    "My family grew apples in upstate New York," says Hobbs. "I was introduced early on to the idea that a sense of place imparts unique characteristics to the fruit from where it was sourced, whether it be an apple or a wine grape."

    Hobbs’ upbringing ingrained in him the idea that winemaking happens as much in the vineyards as in the winery. “The more one understands the DNA of a site,” he says, “the more that character can be reflected in the finished wine.”

    Hobbs' early experience with apples has guided his groun...

  7. Domaine Mont Bessay: Rethinking Excellence in Beaujolais

    Domaine Mont Bessay: Rethinking Excellence in Beaujolais

    Since we last spoke with Philippe Pascal, founder of Burgundy's Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, he and winemaker Guillaume Marko have started an exciting new venture in Beaujolais. The new project, Domaine Mont Bessay, located in the heart of the Juliénas Cru, ...

  8. Chateau de Saint Cosme: Wines That Reflect Gigondas' Distinctive Soils

    Chateau de Saint Cosme: Wines That Reflect Gigondas' Distinctive Soils

    Grape Collective's Lisa Denning sat down with Château de Saint Cosme winemaker Nicolas Chevrol, who has been working with Barruol since 2016, to discuss the teroir of Gigondas and the winery's hands-off approach to winemaking.

  9. Corsica's Domaine Giacometti, Making Expressive Wines in Untamed Territory

    Corsica's Domaine Giacometti, Making Expressive Wines in Untamed Territory

    It takes guts to uproot yourself and start a new venture in a secluded and remote location—a desert, no less. But that's exactly what Christian Giacometti did in 1987. Purchasing vines planted in northern Corsica in 1966, he founded a winery within the arid Agriates Desert, a protected site bordering the Mediterranean Sea practically untouched by human development.

  10. Behind The Booth: Wine Producers' View of Vinitaly

    Behind The Booth: Wine Producers' View of Vinitaly

    Vinitaly's significance as a catalyst for international trade and industry growth is evident from its size, drawing 4,600 exhibitors and over 1,000 top buyers from 68 countries for its 55th edition in 2023. The fair, hosted by Veronafiere in collaboration with ICE, the Italian Trade Agency, is considered indispensable by many wine producers for engaging with industry professionals. However, as with any large organized event, challenges arise, prompting wine producers to reassess the benefits versus the costs.

     

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