lisa denning

When you pick up a bottle of wine, do you ever stop to consider the values of the people behind the label? For most of us, it’s all about the taste—but there’s often a deeper story to discover. At Argentina’s Bodega Santa Julia, the Zuccardi family goes above and beyond, creating eco-friendly wines while making a meaningful impact on their community.

The Zuccardi family's wine story is deeply rooted in Argentina's Mendoza region. They own over 800 hectares of vineyards and two well-known wineries: Bodega Zuccardi in the Uco Valley and Bodega Santa Julia in Maipú. Over three generations, they have built a strong reputation for quality wines and respectful winemaking traditions.

It all began in 1968 when Alberto Zuccardi, an engineer, bought land in Maipú to test an irrigation system. This technical project unexpectedly turned into a family passion for winemaking. By the 1980s, Alberto's son José Alberto took the reins, naming the winery after his daughter Julia and steering it towards sustainable production and organic farming. 

Caring for Land and People

But the Zuccardi family’s vision reaches far beyond environmental concerns—it’s also rooted in social and cultural responsibility, a commitment championed by the late Emma Zuccardi and carried forward today by her granddaughter.

“My grandparents were very focused on caring for the land and the people,” said Julia Zuccardi. “My grandfather was very connected to nature. He believed our responsibility was to take care of the land and give future generations the same or better than we have.”

While Alberto’s work in organic and regenerative farming laid the foundation for environmental stewardship, Emma pioneered the winery’s social mission.

“My grandmother was very connected to people,” Zuccardi explained. “She believed in caring for our community and always wanted to provide our workers and their families with the tools to improve their quality of life.” 

During a recent visit to Mendoza, Julia Zuccardi welcomed our group of writers for a leisurely lunch at Pan y Oliva, a cozy restaurant in Santa Julia's Visitor’s Center. Over plates of burrata with roasted tomatoes, honey-glazed salmon, and homemade pasta, Zuccardi shared family stories, many about her grandmother Emma, whose community-focused vision shaped the winery's social sustainability. Afterward, she took us on a tour of the facilities, including a daycare, sewing center, and adult school—each stop showing how dedicated the Zuccardis are to improving the lives of their workers, their families, and the broader community.

Education and Empowerment

Social equity may be a common focus for companies today, often supported by Human Resources departments, but Emma Zuccardi was ahead of her time. "Fifty years ago, my grandmother didn’t know anything about corporate social responsibility," Zuccardi explained. "But she was very active and passionate, creating what we now call cultural centers."

The two cultural centers, one at the Maipú vineyards and the other in Santa Rosa, offer adult education programs that let workers complete their studies without compromising their incomes. Each center also provide various facilities, including a gym, library, and computer access, benefiting employees and the local community.

“In the beginning, my grandmother faced challenges with the adult school,” Zuccardi recounted. “Classes were held after work, and people often quit school to care for their families. So, she revised the program. Now, classes are held during work hours twice a week, and we pay workers to attend. We believe that if they have a better quality of life and improve their education, it’s better for our company, too. It’s like a circle.”

Today, more than 100 people graduate from these programs annually, both Santa Julia employees and those from the surrounding community. “The idea is to impact not only the people who work with us but the whole community,” Zuccardi said.

The cultural center isn’t just about education either—it’s a place for economic empowerment, especially for women in the community. Emma saw a need for women to have financial independence and professional skills, so she launched a sewing workshop where they could learn a trade and earn an income to support their families by making and selling shirts, pants, uniforms, aprons, and more.

“Many of these women used to stay home, but now they have jobs and can contribute financially to their families,” Zuccardi told us. “At first, my grandmother had to educate them on the importance of their work. When the women said they needed to stop at 11 to make lunch for their husbands, she would laugh and tell them, ‘No, you don’t. You have a job, and your husband can make his own lunch.’”

This commitment to people and the community was formally recognized in 2001 when Bodega Santa Julia became the first winery in Argentina to receive Fair for Life certification. This distinction acknowledges their efforts to combat unsafe working conditions, child labor, and other injustices while promoting fair working conditions.

A New Vision for Parenting

The daycare program at Santa Julia was another of Emma’s groundbreaking initiatives. It supports both parents’ professional lives, especially women, who often have to choose between motherhood and working outside the home. With facilities that range from infant care to after-school programs, the daycare gives women freedom and equality in a supportive environment. 

“My grandmother was a visionary,” Julia says. “She started the daycare many years ago so parents could work, knowing their children were well cared for. We have about 60 children here, and it’s open to the community, so children from all backgrounds mix. This diversity is important to us, and we are proud because it reduces social distinctions among the kids.”

“The kids are being taken care of during working hours, yet their parents can still come by and see them. And mothers can breastfeed their infants in the middle of the day since we have a special room for that,” said Zuccardi.

Importantly, all programs are operated in partnership with the government which contributes to some of the salaries. However, the Zuccardis cover the rest and take on the costs of construction, equipment, and materials. “We feel it’s the right thing to do,” Zuccardi shared.

Wine as Culture

As our tour wound down, Julia told us about the winery’s art gallery, another passion project of her grandmother’s: “She loved art and wanted a place to showcase local artists because, as we always say, wine is culture. When you talk about wine, you talk about culture.”

The gallery includes pieces by local artists, including colorful works by Emili...

"Wine is all about celebration,” said Daniel Johnnes during a recent wine pairing dinner at Charlie Bird in lower Manhattan. "The joy is in sharing it with neighbors and the community." Johnnes is the man behind the world-renowned La Paulée fe...

Weed & Wine is a documentary that explores universal themes of family, legacy, and sustainability. Emmy-nominated filmmaker Rebecca Richman Cohen invites viewers into the lives of two families: the Jodreys in Humboldt, California, and the Thibons in Rhône Valley, France.

As the Jodreys transition from black market to legal cannabis cultivation, the Thibons continue to care for their biodynamic vineyard, a tradition that has been passed down through generations. Both families face unique challenges, but what binds them is their passion for their craft and their struggle to protect what they’ve built for future generations.

Grape Collective spoke with Cohen to learn more about the making of Weed & Wine and the stories that shaped it.

Lisa Denning: What inspired you to make a documentary that explores parallels between the cannabis and wine industries?

...

The story of Malbec in Argentina is one of dramatic ups and downs. From its introduction in the mid-19th century to its near disappearance in the mid-20th century and its subsequent resurgence as Argentina's flagship wine, Malbec has shown itself to be resilient and adaptable. One of the key figures in Malbec's comeback is Paul Hobbs, a visionary winemaker, consultant, and winery owner, who recognized Malbec's ability to reflect Mendoza's varied landscapes. His work, together with others, has helped put the grape and Argentina on the worldwide wine map.

From Apples to Grapes

Paul Hobbs grew up on his family's fruit farm in upstate New York. Little did he know that these early experiences in the orchards would lay the foundation for his future career. 

"My family grew apples in upstate New York," says Hobbs. "I was introduced early on to the idea that a sense of place imparts unique characteristics to the fruit from where it was sourced, whether it be an apple or a wine grape."

Hobbs’ upbringing ingrained in him the idea that winemaking happens as much in the vineyards as in the winery. “The more one understands the DNA of a site,” he says, “the more that character can be reflected in the finished wine.”

Hobbs' early experience with apples has guided his groun...

Since we last spoke with Philippe Pascal, founder of Burgundy's Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, he and winemaker Guillaume Marko have started an exciting new venture in Beaujolais. The new project, Domaine Mont Bessay, located in the heart of the Juliénas Cru, ...

Grape Collective's Lisa Denning sat down with Château de Saint Cosme winemaker Nicolas Chevrol, who has been working with Barruol since 2016, to discuss the teroir of Gigondas and the winery's hands-off approach to winemaking.

It takes guts to uproot yourself and start a new venture in a secluded and remote location—a desert, no less. But that's exactly what Christian Giacometti did in 1987. Purchasing vines planted in northern Corsica in 1966, he founded a winery within the arid Agriates Desert, a protected site bordering the Mediterranean Sea practically untouched by human development.

Vinitaly's significance as a catalyst for international trade and industry growth is evident from its size, drawing 4,600 exhibitors and over 1,000 top buyers from 68 countries for its 55th edition in 2023. The fair, hosted by Veronafiere in collaboration with ICE, the Italian Trade Agency, is considered indispensable by many wine producers for engaging with industry professionals. However, as with any large organized event, challenges arise, prompting wine producers to reassess the benefits versus the costs.

How should one approach a rare wine tasting of Bordeaux vintages ranging from four to 105 years old?

Nicolas Sinoquet, CEO of Château Gruaud Larose, advises against having expectations; instead, one should accept the wines as they are and reflect on the personal memories they evoke. Beyond taste, he says that older wines can connect us to history and provide a moment for reflection. Sinoquet suggests trying the wines and discussing your thoughts without worrying about sounding foolish, as there is no right or wrong when talking about wine.

Founded in 1725, Château Gruaud Larose is one of Bordeaux’s oldest wine estates. Situated in the Médoc's Saint-Julien appellation, it is among the fifteen Second Cru Classés, a top-quality designation from the famous 1855 Bordeaux wine classification.

Only four families have led Gruaud Larose during its nearly 300-year history: the Gruaud & Larose families, the Balguerie and Sarget families, the Cordier family, and, since 1997, the Merlaut family. Under Sinoquet's leadership, the chateau continues to evolve while respecting its longstanding heritage.

During a media event in New York City hosted by Sinoquet, guests tasted 30 Gruaud Larose vintages dating from 2020 to 1919. This extraordinary tasting, where every vintage, even the oldest, proved lively, was a unique journey through time. 

Before the tasting, Grape Collective talked with Sinoquet about evaluating younger versus older wines and whether to decant the older ones. Other topics addressed included the chateau's use of organic and biodynamic methods and the effects of climate change.

This is an amazing experience tonight, tasting Gruaud Larose vintages over a hundred years old. I don't think I've ever tasted wine that old. What can we, your guests, expect to experience? And what should we be looking for?

Don't expect anything. Take the wines for what they are. Some will be fresh, and some will seem old. The only thing you need to do when you drink those old wines is to be patient and to be connected with yourself. The old wines are not necessarily the tastiest wines that you're going to try, and you need to intellectualize what you are drinking. Say, "Okay, this wine is 20 years old. What does it remind me of when I drink it? Does it remind me of my grandmother? Does it remind me of, I don't know, the old house that I went to during my vacation? Stuff like that. To me, that's really a link with history. It's not about taste. To me, it's more about memory. And so you have to come fresh. If you are a specialist, you can see the link between every vintage because the size of the estate hasn't changed, so you'll see a clear line between every vintage. And there is nothing right or wrong when talking about the wines.

It's about how you perceive them, right?

Exactly. 

Do you feel that out of all these vintages we're tasting tonight, the ones considered milestone vintages have gotten noticed for a reason?

There are some, the big wines, '82, '89, '90, ‘37, that are considered milestones, but then, once again, for me, it’s something very personal. The first one I tasted, for instance, or the one I had with good friends or my family in a happy or sad moment. For instance, I love the '01 or '04—they are not big wines, but I have had good moments with them. So I'm very pleased when I open a bottle. And then you are already in a good mindset, so the wine tastes better.

And when would you say, generally speaking, that the wines reach their peak maturity? 

To me, it depends on what you're looking for. If you like strong berry notes, I wouldn't recommend drinking a Gruaud Larose before ten years of age. And then depending on the vintage, 10 to 30 years. And then, after 30 years, you're entering another world, and there is no end. I tasted wines that were 160 years old, and they're still alive. But they are old wines, so it's different.

Do you have any tips for people who will open an old bottle of your wine? Should they decant it?

No, they shouldn't decant them because they're extremely fragile wines. The ones that you're going to try, for instance, tonight, we just opened them. You open and drink them in an hour or two but don't decant them. You decant only the young ones because they need some air.

Do you like to taste the older or younger vintages first?

We met with about 80 people earlier today, and they all asked me the same question. My answer is that it's up to you. I taste the young ones first. Tonight, for dinner, we will start with the young ones because that's my choice. Many people start with the old ones, saying, "My palate is fresh, so it's going to be easier for me to taste those fragile wines."

So it’s another personal decision.

Exactly. 

Lisa Denning: You’ve been the CEO since 2012. What direction are you taking this historic chateau?

Nicolas Sinoquet: I would first say that we try to continue what has been done in the past. I consider that we are only here for a short period of time, even if it's 30 or 40 years. And we don't own the estate; we just lend it to the next generation. So we ensure that we will not destroy the estate or do crazy stuff. And then what I want to do is to be more precise in the way we work. That’s the main objective. I think of Gruaud Larose as a hand-cut diamond.

And because of the terroir we've got—it's an exceptional terroir—probably one of the most beautiful terroir in the Medoc. And doing this, sometimes you don't make the extra effort to ensure your wine is exceptional. So what I wanted to do first is to make sure that we're making this effort, being more precise and more modern in the precision of the wine and then move to organics.

When you talk about more precision, you're talking in the vineyards and the cellar?

Everywhere. So, one generation left the estate, the vineyard manager, and the winemaker. Then, we brought some new people in with a new vision and better school knowledge. We were making great wine before, but now we can explain why and be more precise. 

What is your winemaking philosophy? 

Precision and making classic and elegant wine. We don't want a wine that doesn't fit the terroir. We don't extract too much, for example. We respect that terroir is a big thing. It's not trendy. But being well-balanced. Sometimes, people in wine consider themselves artists, but we are more like craftsmen. We just use what we have and try not to transform it but to reveal it, and to shape what we've inherited from the site.

Are you certified organic?

Yes. We are certified since 2022. This has also changed how we see the vineyard and our relationship with our environment, meaning the soil, the people, and our long-term relationship with the estate. To me, that was the main thing.

You've also embraced biodynamic practices in the vineyards. Have you noticed a difference in the wines since starting?

Honestly, I don't know. Because there are so many things that impact your vineyards, meaning the climate, the soil, the way you work, the people you work with. So, moving to organics was a big step. And then biodynamic, I don’t know. We are not certified, so we are working on it. To me biodynamic, part of it is bullshit, part is not. But it's more linked with your personal experience and because it's different from one vineyard to the other. And so we have to be extremely humble when it comes to biodynamic or organic. We need to learn. So you go step by step. And I think our wines are more lively than they used to be. But is it because we changed some stuff? Is it because of the organic? Because of the way we work, the people who are working with us? I don't know. It's multifactorial. I'm sure there is some impact. Of course, there is some.

So it's one of those things where time will tell.

Exactly.

People will be doing a tasting one hundred years from now, and hopefully, they will know.

Maybe they’ll say what a nightmare the ‘22 and ‘23 are! [Laughs]

Let's talk a little bit about climate change. Are you addressing that in the vineyards, in the cellar?

No, not yet. Right now, climate change is obvious, but it has positively impacted Bordeaux wine. The Cabernet in Medoc needs more heat, so there is no problem with that in Bordeaux. Okay, fine. I think we are also taking out the leaves around the grapes. We can leave the leaves if there is too much direct sunlight or wind. So there is some methods that we are using now that we can stop and that will help with the climate change. People are trying to use new varietals and it's not doing well. It's too early. Maybe in 20, 30, 40 years. I don't know. But right now, it's too early.

So you're not doing that kind of experimentation yet?

No, what we've done is we’ve increased the size of the vines, and then you've got more leaves, and then it helps to do more photosynthesis, but it's not linked directly with climate change.

How are you engaging with today's younger consumers who are inclined to explore more unconventional wines?

I think the wine we're making is more accessible. They are not as tough as they used to be. I ...

Human-generated carbon dioxide is the primary contributor to global warming, and its impact will only intensify if ongoing greenhouse gas emissions are not reduced. In response, people from diverse sectors are taking action. Farmers, in particular,...