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Beneath the harmonious façade of Spain's wine industry lies a complex interplay between Catalan regional identity and Spanish national interests, with historical tensions occasionally surfacing through cultural expressions, marketing choices, and even export strategies.

We began to enjoy the taste of wine soon after we met in 1973, but we began to love wine when we discovered its stories. Hugh Johnson’s “The World Atlas of Wine” gave it geographical context. Even more important to us was Leon D. Adams’s “The Wines of America,” which felt like a guided tour of people and history, like this section on Michigan:

“Two more wineries in Paw Paw offer tours and tasting. Next door to Warner on Kalamazoo Street is the million-gallon St. Julian cellar, with a handsome tasting room built since a fire destroyed part of the building in 1971. Mariano Meconi started this winery in 1921 at Windsor, Ontario, as the Italian Wine Company, moved it at Repeal to Detroit, and five years later brought most of its equipment to Paw Paw.” 

Wine is about history, geography and people. Rarely has a book combined the three more powerfully than “The Wines of California” by Elaine Chukan Brown, from Academie du Vin Library ($44.95 at amazon.com and the publisher). And this book brings something additional, something different, as Brown explains:

“In looking at the state’s wine history within a larger context, I have tried to demonstrate the connections between its successes and pivotal challenges, its triumphs and the costs that came from them. This includes acknowledging that its history of winegrowing has depended on the labor of people of color. Other histories on the wine industry have tended to overlook or erase this reality. By incorporating this important part of wine’s development, we can better understand the history of California and perhaps also what solutions for today’s labor issues might be possible.”

The book doesn’t only discuss every wine region of the state in depth, but, in many capsule introductions, includes the first peoples. 

Santa Barbara County.

Known for: Pinot Noir, Sideways.

Lesser-known strength: homes to Charlie Chaplin, Oprah Winfrey, and Ronald Reagan.

Leader in: savory Chardonnay, Santa Maria BBQ, pinquito beans.

First peoples: Michumash.

Consider the elegance there of combining humor and education, history and current affairs. That’s a good example of the whole book.

Brown is a highly regarded speaker, writer and educator whom we have known for several years. Brown and Dottie serve on the board of the Wine Writers Symposium at Meadowood, which is sponsored by the Napa Valley Vintners trade organization and Meadowood Napa Valley. At the Symposium in 2023, for a panel called Writing Across Styles, John interviewed Brown about a 793-word masterpiece Brown had written for Wine & Spirits called “Caribou Bones and Burgundy.” Brown is Indigenous – Inupiaq and Unangan-Sugpiaq – from what is now Alaska. As John spoke with Brown about the creation of that article, Brown explained that it really was all about their family and started to cry. Then John started to cry – and then everyone in the whole room cried.

(Elaine Chukan Brown, Dottie, and sommelier, Miguel de Leon)

The book is dedicated to Brown’s daughter, Ellaita, and “For Dottie, who did it first.” So we would not pretend for a minute that what you are reading here is objective. But it is true. 

This book is core, essential. For anyone just beginning their journey, this will put wine in context in straightforward language with little jargon. For example: Cabernet Sauvignon’s “move into the steep slopes and mountain ridges of the state brought recognition of mountain tannins. While there are high elevation Cabernet vineyards elsewhere in the world, nowhere else is there a high enough concentration of them to create the notion of a mountain Cabernet.”

Like Karen MacNeil’s “The Wine Bible” and Jancis Robinson’s “The Oxford Companion to Wine,” this book needs to be on the shelf as a reference.  For those who want more structured learning about wine, there’s Kevin Zraly’s “Windows on the World Complete Wine Course,” which celebrated its 35th anniversary edition in 2020.

Those of us far along on our journeys will find all sorts of interesting material, too. We thought an American Viticultural Area was primarily a defined geographical place of origin. Turns out it’s more than that: “The Mendocino Ridge AVA only takes in vines grown at 1,200 feet (366 meters) and...

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La Ferme Rouge has emerged as one of Morocco's most innovative and respected wineries. At the helm of this viticultural renaissance stands Jacques Poulain, one of the key figures behind the modern wine revival in Morocco.  

While Morocco might not be the first country that comes to mind when thinking of fine wine, Poulain has spent the last decade challenging preconceptions and crafting bottles that speak eloquently of place—wines that balance Moroccan sunshine and minerality with European precision and finesse.

Grape Collective talked with Poulain about the challenges and rewards of winemaking in an emerging region, the influence of Morocco's cultural tapestry on his craft, and his vision for the future of Moroccan wine on the global stage.

Christopher Barnes: Talk about your wine journey. How did you find yourself making wine in Morocco?

Jacques Poulain: My name is Jacques Poulain, and I am a winemaker. I come from the Bordelais region in the southwest of France. I worked for ten years as a winemaker in that region before deciding, in 1997, to move permanently to Morocco. Initially, I worked as the technical director at Domaine Ouled Thaleb, located in the coastal region of Benziman, between Casablanca and Rabat.

My first mission there was to collaborate with local landowners and create partnerships. This involved identifying land that had previously been cultivated and reestablishing its potential. While exploring this area, about 70 kilometers from Benziman, I discovered an exceptional terroir that I deeply believed in.

I contributed by advising on grape varieties, recommending cultivation methods, and encouraging Moroccan landowners to replant vineyards, particularly in the Aïr region. I supported them technically and helped add value to their grapes by purchasing their harvests and transforming them into high-quality wines, which I brought back to Benziman to produce into a "cru." During this time, I met someone with whom, in 2009, I had the opportunity to establish La Ferme Rouge. The journey began in 1998 with the replanting of the vineyard, and La Ferme Rouge was officially created in 2009.

It’s important to acknowledge the property's history. There was an old, ruined wine cellar that still existed—an inheritance from settlers who had left Morocco in the 1970s. Amine’s family acquired the property when the settlers departed. For a time, the surrounding lands were managed by the state, which later chose to reprivatize them in the 2000s. La Ferme Rouge, originally known as Domaine de la Jacqueline, rented five domains adjacent to the family property from the estate. Rehabilitation of the site began in March 2009, and our first harvest took place on September 2, 2009.

Our cornerstone wines at La Ferme Rouge are Terre Blanche and Terre Rouge. These wines represent our origins and are deeply tied to the history of La Ferme Rouge.

Talk about the history of wine in Morocco.

Morocco has a rich viticultural heritage dating back to antiquity, with vineyards cultivated and traded by the Phoenicians, Greeks, and Romans. Despite being part of a Mediterranean tradition, Morocco’s viticulture developed significantly during the colonial era due to the destruction of French vineyards by phylloxera.

During the Napoleonic era, French settlers introduced vineyards to North Africa, including Algeria, Tunisia, and Morocco, to replace the wine production lost in France. These wines, known as "medicine wines," were robust, high in alcohol, and used to support French wines, especially during times of need, such as for soldiers.

After decolonization, however, the vineyards were neglected, and production dwindled significantly compared to the volumes of the 1950s and ‘60s. Today, only a fraction of that output remains. In a sense, we are among the "last Mohicans" of Moroccan viticulture, but for the past 25 years, we have been contributing to its revival.

What grapes do you work with at La Ferme Rouge?

At La Ferme Rouge, we grow grape varieties that are commonly planted in Europe, particularly in France. Traditionally, at the ancestral level here, we planted Cinsault, Grenache, Carignan, and Alicante Bouschet. In the older parts of the vineyard, spanning about 70 hectares and nearly 80 years old, we still have old vines of Cinsault, Grenache, and Carignan. However, we no longer grow Alicante Bouschet.

Since 1998, I have been replanting the more modern parts of the vineyard. For white grape varieties, we cultivate Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Colombard, Viognier, and Gros Manseng.

As for red varieties, that’s an area I particularly enjoy working in. While I was working in Bordeaux, I didn’t have the opportunity to work with Syrah, a grape I’ve always admired. I’ve loved tasting Syrah, especially in Côte du Rhône wines, and it was a fantastic discovery for me to grow it here. Syrah adapts beautifully to our climatic conditions and terroirs at La Ferme Rouge. In addition to Syrah, we also grow Tempranillo, a well-known Spanish variety renowned for its drought resistance, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon. We don’t grow Merlot or Pinot Noir because the climate here is far too hot for those varieties. Other red grapes we cultivate include Carignan, Cinsault, and Grenache, which we primarily use for rosés and gris. We also grow unique varieties such as Caladoc, Arinarnoa, and a small amount of Marselan. Additionally, we produce Tannat, Malbec, and a little Petit Verdot.

Talk about the terroir at the estate.

Regarding the terroirs, we have two primary types, both with Moroccan names. There’s black clay, located on one side of the road, and red clay, found on the westernmost part of the estate. We also have limestone sands and limestone clay. In some areas, especially near the valley, there are blocks of cracked limestone. The subsoils are mainly schist and granite, with some gallets (rounded pebbles).

The terrain here is undulating, similar to Médoc vineyards, which allows for good drainage. These conditions contribute significantly to the character of our wines.

The white wines we produce are very mineral-driven, with exceptional freshness and salinity. They are refreshing, sapid wines that reflect the unique qualities of our terroir.

For reds, the market has shifted over the past 25 years. There used to be a preference for heavily oaked wines with powerful Cabernet Sauvignon that required long aging. Now, consumers want reds that are approachable, fruity, and enjoyable immediately, yet capable of some aging. We aim for balance, creating wines that are both accessible and refined.

La Ferme Rouge is a truly exceptional terroir. When you visit Morocco and explore other vineyards, you’ll notice the constant wind we receive from the Atlantic Ocean, which greatly influences the final expression of our wines. Working with this terroir is fascinating and deeply fulfilling for me. My connection to the vineyard is passionate and personal—I can’t imagine doing anything else.

Beyond wine, we also produce olive oil. Our estate includes 286 hectares of vineyards and about 300 hectares of olive groves. We create three types of olive oil, and it’s fascinating to transition from pressing grapes to pressing olives as the seasons change. This dual focus on wine and olive oil production keeps our work dynamic and rooted in tradition, allowing us to showcase the richness of our land in multiple ways.

How is it making wine in a Muslim country?

Well, to answer this question, which is a bit delicate, there’s a common perception among tourists. They often wonder, “Morocco is a Muslim country—how is it possible to produce wine there? How do you get authorization?” Typically, in Muslim countries, drinking is forbidden. People are curious and often surprised to learn that wine is produced here. In fact, wine production is not forbidden in Morocco. For example, wine is also produced in Tunisia and Algeria. But here, if you want to invest in a vineyard, you need the means and opportunity to do so. Unlike Europe, we don't have subsidies for planting or harvesting. None of that exists here.

The costs of production are as high—if not higher—than in France. People often ask, "What about labor?" Labor costs, while lower than in France, present challenges. Although the minimum wage has risen over the years, there is a lack of qualified workers. For example, a technician trained in oenology at a school in Bordeaux comes with technical expertise and a different cultural approach. Here, viticulture isn’t a cultural norm, and there are no specialized schools for it. While there are agricultural and engineering schools, their focus on viticulture and winemaking is minimal. This lack of training means we must train our workers ourselves, which is a significant investment of time and resources. In France, one qualified technician could handle a role efficiently. Here, I might need five workers to perform the same tasks. This reliance on untrained labor increases costs, even if individual wages are lower. As for subsidies, there are limited options. Occasionally, there are small subsidies for specific projects, such as installing drip irrigation systems, but nothing comparable to the support available in Europe.

Tourists are among the main consumers of the wine we produce. Distribution here includes direct sales, wine shops, neighborhood spice shops, cafes, hotels, and restaurants. There’s also the GMS (Grandes et Moyennes Surfaces), or large retail outlets. It’s a fairly standard market structure, similar to other countries. Not everyone in Morocco drinks wine, of course, but the country is quite open-minded. Moroccans are naturally curious and welcoming people. This openness creates a certain tolerance for activities like winemaking.

Regarding the impact of Ferme Rouge on its environment, the social aspect is crucial. For our village, our presence has been transformative. We do everything by hand—no chemical weeding. All the weeds under the rows are removed manually. We employ many women because they are hardworking, careful, and deeply involved. While men typically take on roles like carpentry, tractor operation, or working in the cellar, the women handle tasks like weeding and maintaining the vineyard. Their contributions are invaluable.

La Ferme Rouge has grown, and so has the village around it. This mutual growth underscores the importance of our human impact. It’s not just about producing wine but creating a community and a sustainable way of working.

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"Cab Franc is an immigrant success story," says John Leo of Onabay Vineyards, describing how this classic European variety has found a proper home in New York State. A new coalition, Cab Franc Forward NY, agrees and is championing it as the state's signature red variety. Their inaugural Grand Tasting in Manhattan on February 4, 2025, brought together thirty-five wineries and over 500 attendees, including 280 wine professionals. The unprecedented gathering displayed Cabernet Franc's growing prominence—it's now New York's most planted red vinifera grape, with 638 acres under vine. 

For centuries, Pais was the big shot of Chilean wine, the grape equivalent of sitting at the cool kids' table. But then the 1980s happened - and just like shoulder pads and mullets, what was once cool became decidedly uncool. International varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon strutted in like they owned the place, and poor Pais was ghosted faster than a bad Tinder date. The grape equivalent of your grandpa's vinyl collection gathered dust in forgotten vineyards.

We understand that baseball and wine is, unfortunately, an odd pairing. We wrote last year that the NBA and many of its players have fully embraced wine. Baseball, not so much. While there are some players who love wine – Rusty Staub of the Expos and Mets was the first we recall, long-time manager Dusty Baker has a winery, Dodgers manager Dave Roberts is a partner in the Red Stitch wine brand and former Cubs manager Joe Maddon is a huge fan -- baseball and beer seem synonymous.

Weed & Wine is a documentary that explores universal themes of family, legacy, and sustainability. Emmy-nominated filmmaker Rebecca Richman Cohen invites viewers into the lives of two families: the Jodreys in Humboldt, California, and the Thibons in Rhône Valley, France.

As the Jodreys transition from black market to legal cannabis cultivation, the Thibons continue to care for their biodynamic vineyard, a tradition that has been passed down through generations. Both families face unique challenges, but what binds them is their passion for their craft and their struggle to protect what they’ve built for future generations.

Grape Collective spoke with Cohen to learn more about the making of Weed & Wine and the stories that shaped it.

Lisa Denning: What inspired you to make a documentary that explores parallels between the cannabis and wine industries?

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Nestled in the picturesque hills of Urbino in the heart of the Le Marche region, Tenuta Santi Giacomo e Filippo stands as a testament to centuries of history, tradition, and viticulture. This charming estate, with its sprawling vineyards and rustic charm, has played a pivotal role in promoting the winemaking heritage of the region.