Monthly Archives: November 2024

Sometimes, expensive wines are worth the money. We have always said that price alone is no indication of quality and that price and value are different things. We have tasted many wines under $20 that were thoughtful, lovely and true. We have also tried many astonishingly expensive wines that tasted like anvils. Those often came in heavy bottles with elegant labels and higher alcohol than we would like. We thought that, in a way, their high price alone probably gave them cachet with some people.

When you pick up a bottle of wine, do you ever stop to consider the values of the people behind the label? For most of us, it’s all about the taste—but there’s often a deeper story to discover. At Argentina’s Bodega Santa Julia, the Zuccardi family goes above and beyond, creating eco-friendly wines while making a meaningful impact on their community.

The Zuccardi family's wine story is deeply rooted in Argentina's Mendoza region. They own over 800 hectares of vineyards and two well-known wineries: Bodega Zuccardi in the Uco Valley and Bodega Santa Julia in Maipú. Over three generations, they have built a strong reputation for quality wines and respectful winemaking traditions.

It all began in 1968 when Alberto Zuccardi, an engineer, bought land in Maipú to test an irrigation system. This technical project unexpectedly turned into a family passion for winemaking. By the 1980s, Alberto's son José Alberto took the reins, naming the winery after his daughter Julia and steering it towards sustainable production and organic farming. 

Caring for Land and People

But the Zuccardi family’s vision reaches far beyond environmental concerns—it’s also rooted in social and cultural responsibility, a commitment championed by the late Emma Zuccardi and carried forward today by her granddaughter.

“My grandparents were very focused on caring for the land and the people,” said Julia Zuccardi. “My grandfather was very connected to nature. He believed our responsibility was to take care of the land and give future generations the same or better than we have.”

While Alberto’s work in organic and regenerative farming laid the foundation for environmental stewardship, Emma pioneered the winery’s social mission.

“My grandmother was very connected to people,” Zuccardi explained. “She believed in caring for our community and always wanted to provide our workers and their families with the tools to improve their quality of life.” 

During a recent visit to Mendoza, Julia Zuccardi welcomed our group of writers for a leisurely lunch at Pan y Oliva, a cozy restaurant in Santa Julia's Visitor’s Center. Over plates of burrata with roasted tomatoes, honey-glazed salmon, and homemade pasta, Zuccardi shared family stories, many about her grandmother Emma, whose community-focused vision shaped the winery's social sustainability. Afterward, she took us on a tour of the facilities, including a daycare, sewing center, and adult school—each stop showing how dedicated the Zuccardis are to improving the lives of their workers, their families, and the broader community.

Education and Empowerment

Social equity may be a common focus for companies today, often supported by Human Resources departments, but Emma Zuccardi was ahead of her time. "Fifty years ago, my grandmother didn’t know anything about corporate social responsibility," Zuccardi explained. "But she was very active and passionate, creating what we now call cultural centers."

The two cultural centers, one at the Maipú vineyards and the other in Santa Rosa, offer adult education programs that let workers complete their studies without compromising their incomes. Each center also provide various facilities, including a gym, library, and computer access, benefiting employees and the local community.

“In the beginning, my grandmother faced challenges with the adult school,” Zuccardi recounted. “Classes were held after work, and people often quit school to care for their families. So, she revised the program. Now, classes are held during work hours twice a week, and we pay workers to attend. We believe that if they have a better quality of life and improve their education, it’s better for our company, too. It’s like a circle.”

Today, more than 100 people graduate from these programs annually, both Santa Julia employees and those from the surrounding community. “The idea is to impact not only the people who work with us but the whole community,” Zuccardi said.

The cultural center isn’t just about education either—it’s a place for economic empowerment, especially for women in the community. Emma saw a need for women to have financial independence and professional skills, so she launched a sewing workshop where they could learn a trade and earn an income to support their families by making and selling shirts, pants, uniforms, aprons, and more.

“Many of these women used to stay home, but now they have jobs and can contribute financially to their families,” Zuccardi told us. “At first, my grandmother had to educate them on the importance of their work. When the women said they needed to stop at 11 to make lunch for their husbands, she would laugh and tell them, ‘No, you don’t. You have a job, and your husband can make his own lunch.’”

This commitment to people and the community was formally recognized in 2001 when Bodega Santa Julia became the first winery in Argentina to receive Fair for Life certification. This distinction acknowledges their efforts to combat unsafe working conditions, child labor, and other injustices while promoting fair working conditions.

A New Vision for Parenting

The daycare program at Santa Julia was another of Emma’s groundbreaking initiatives. It supports both parents’ professional lives, especially women, who often have to choose between motherhood and working outside the home. With facilities that range from infant care to after-school programs, the daycare gives women freedom and equality in a supportive environment. 

“My grandmother was a visionary,” Julia says. “She started the daycare many years ago so parents could work, knowing their children were well cared for. We have about 60 children here, and it’s open to the community, so children from all backgrounds mix. This diversity is important to us, and we are proud because it reduces social distinctions among the kids.”

“The kids are being taken care of during working hours, yet their parents can still come by and see them. And mothers can breastfeed their infants in the middle of the day since we have a special room for that,” said Zuccardi.

Importantly, all programs are operated in partnership with the government which contributes to some of the salaries. However, the Zuccardis cover the rest and take on the costs of construction, equipment, and materials. “We feel it’s the right thing to do,” Zuccardi shared.

Wine as Culture

As our tour wound down, Julia told us about the winery’s art gallery, another passion project of her grandmother’s: “She loved art and wanted a place to showcase local artists because, as we always say, wine is culture. When you talk about wine, you talk about culture.”

The gallery includes pieces by local artists, including colorful works by Emili...

Villa Volubilia owner and winemaker Christophe Gribelin shares insights into the challenges and rewards of winemaking in Morocco, a land of striking contrasts where the Mediterranean climate and mineral-rich soils create ideal conditions for vineyards to thrive. 

Last year, when we were the MCs at the International Pinot Noir Celebration on the campus of Linfield University in McMinnville, Oregon, we heard that the university was starting a wine bar that would be run by students. The administrator who told us this added that Linfield was a dry campus, so we wondered how that would work.

Benjamin Spencer, author of The New Wines of Mount Etna and Director of the Etna Wine School, is a celebrated voice in the world of wine, with a deep-rooted passion for the volcanic terroir of Sicily’s Mount Etna. As a sommelier, wine educator, and winemaker himself, Spencer brings both a scholar’s insight and a craftsman’s perspective to his exploration of Etna’s unique viticultural landscape. His book delves into the history, revival, and current renaissance of winemaking on the slopes of Europe’s highest active volcano. Spencer’s journey with Etna wines began over a decade ago, when he was captivated by the island’s dynamic ecosystem and rich winemaking heritage, which has been both challenged and nourished by the constant, unpredictable force of Etna.

With The New Wines of Mount Etna, Spencer’s goal is not only to document a wine region on the rise but to ignite global appreciation for a winemaking tradition as old as the land itself. Grape Collective talks to Spencer about the past and the future of Etna’s wine culture and the unparalleled beauty—and complexity—of this volcanic landscape.

Christoper Barnes: So Benjamin, talk a little bit about how you ended up on Mount Etna involved in the wine scene here.

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When we were new to wine in the 1970s, before America really warmed to it, there was a lot of unusual stuff on shelves. We drank quite a bit of Bull’s Blood from Hungary, for instance, which was rough but cheap. U.S. winemakers were still experimenting, too. We will always remember the Napa sparkling wine pioneer Hanns Kornell at his tasting room, proudly pouring a traditionally made bubbly made from a grape called Muscat of Alexandria.