The new year is always a good time to look forward as well as back and with Rosh Hashanah coming early this year, we thought we’d check in with Eli Ben-Zaken, one of Israel’s most revered winemakers. At a time when vintners across the globe have faced enormous challenges, he seems to have seen it all: war, heat, fires, climate change and COVID. What we wanted to know is: How does anyone stay optimistic anymore?
The science is there. “Scientists say the Long Island of the future will have shorter, wetter winters and oppressively hot summers, with seas rising and storm surges so strong they will threaten beaches, salt water marshes and infrastructure." Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher on the issues for New York winemakers as it relates to climage change.
"The grey market is incredibly important. Distributors used to have older wine but then all of a sudden things changed and they’re just selling current releases, and if they’re selling “library wine,” wine that’s been aged at the estate, you’re buying at an outrageous markup. Obviously the provenance is going to be perfect, but it’s a huge markup and if you’re a restaurant you’ve got to make money on your wine list. You want to price it where it’s attractive enough that somebody’s actually going to buy the wine." -Charles Puglia
- VIA's Growing Number of Ambassadors Are Spreading the Gospel of Italian Wine"VIA operates under the auspices of Vinitaly International, the promotional arm of Vinitaly, an annual wine fair owned and run for 55 years by Veronafiere, an Italian exposition company." By Lisa Denning
Grape Collective talked to Maddalena Pasqua di Bisceglie of Musella in Valpolicella about her natural approach to winemaking including some unusual methods such as placing speakers in the vineyards to play music to the vines and discusses the dragon which lives amongst them in the forest.
With terrible news about droughts, fires, floods and losses of all manner, it’s helpful at times like these to pause, if we can, and find things to be grateful for, like the way wine can be life-affirming, connective and transportive. - Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher
Tablas Creek, a winery founded in 1989 as a partnership between California’s Haas family and the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is a pioneer of California’s Rhône movement. These two families set out with the goal of establishing the grape varieties of the Southern Rhône in California. After searching up and down the state for a site that offered terroir similar to that of the Southern Rhône, they found the perfect climate and limestone-rich soils in the Adelaida district of Paso Robles. Tablas Creek has painstakingly imported vine cuttings directly from the Beaucastel estate, each going through a rigorous USDA-mandated three-year quarantine and has now successfully imported and grown every grape variety permitted in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
With the pandemic receding in many parts of the U.S., your thoughts may be returning to a long-delayed visit to California’s Wine Country. If so, you should be aware of this: The tasting experience has changed and those changes, in many cases, will be permanent.
Some things in the culinary world were just meant to be together, like bread and butter or tomato and basil. But the most rewarding and complex pair of them all is wine and cheese. A marriage of flavors and textures that will eternally complement...