The story of Malbec in Argentina is one of dramatic ups and downs. From its introduction in the mid-19th century to its near disappearance in the mid-20th century and its subsequent resurgence as Argentina's flagship wine, Malbec has shown itself to be resilient and adaptable. One of the key figures in Malbec's comeback is Paul Hobbs, a visionary winemaker, consultant, and winery owner, who recognized Malbec's ability to reflect Mendoza's varied landscapes. His work, together with others, has helped put the grape and Argentina on the worldwide wine map.
From Apples to Grapes
Paul Hobbs grew up on his family's fruit farm in upstate New York. Little did he know that these early experiences in the orchards would lay the foundation for his future career.
"My family grew apples in upstate New York," says Hobbs. "I was introduced early on to the idea that a sense of place imparts unique characteristics to the fruit from where it was sourced, whether it be an apple or a wine grape."
Hobbs’ upbringing ingrained in him the idea that winemaking happens as much in the vineyards as in the winery. “The more one understands the DNA of a site,” he says, “the more that character can be reflected in the finished wine.”
Hobbs' early experience with apples has guided his groundbreaking work with Viña Cobos in Mendoza, Argentina, as well as his other ventures across the globe: Paul Hobbs, Crossbarn, and HOBBS in California; Hillick & Hobbs in New York's Finger Lakes; Crocus in Cahors, France; Yacoubian-Hobbs in Armenia; and Alvaredos-Hobbs in Galicia, Spain.
The Road to Argentina and Malbec
Before Hobbs made his way to South America in 1988, he had already established himself as a rising star in California's wine industry. Starting at Robert Mondavi in 1977, he quickly earned a spot on the inaugural Opus One winemaking team—a prestigious joint venture between Robert Mondavi and Mouton Rothschild of Bordeaux. After honing his skills at Simi Winery, Hobbs then ventured to Argentina, where a chance encounter with a Malbec vineyard in Mendoza would later become the site of Viña Cobos.
"I was compelled to stop the car, walk the site, and admire the quality of the soil and the high-density planting of the vines,” Hobbs recalls. “Even with antiquated irrigation and trellising methods used back then, the vines were thriving.”
Hobbs stayed in Argentina and began working as a consultant with the highly regarded Catena winemaking family, helping to improve their Chardonnay. However, despite focusing on this white variety, his interest in Malbec never waned. He was particularly impressed by old vines and believed Mendoza could produce much better Malbec than it was currently making.
Hobbs' interest in Malbec was in stark contrast to the prevailing attitude in Argentina when, as he says, nobody wanted to make Malbec. “I was curious about the grape and what it could do, particularly with improved canopy management in the vineyard and sanitary conditions in the winery,” says Hobbs.
An On-Again Off-Again Love Affair
Malbec originated in southwestern France and was introduced to Argentina in 1853 by French agronomist Michel Pouget. The variety thrived in Mendoza's high elevations and warm, sun-kissed climate. By 1962, plantings peaked at over 58,600 hectares, making it Argentina's most planted variety.
However, the grape’s good fortune didn’t last long. Malbec fell out of favor for many reasons, the biggest of which was the economic crises of the late 20th century, which led to a shift towards grape varieties capable of producing large quantities of juice to make inexpensive table wines for domestic consumption.
“The early 1970s were undoubtedly the ‘glory days’ of Argentine wine production in terms of quantity,” writes Amanda Barnes in her book, The South America Wine Guide, “but the quality was unquestionably less glorious than it is today. The focus had switched so irrevocably to quantity over quality, that the lower-yielding red varieties (like Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon) were pulled out in favor of the much higher-yielding white and pink Criolla varieties.”
Between 1962 and the early 1990s, over 80% of Argentina’s Malbec vineyards disappeared. It wasn't until the mid-1990s that Malbec began its resurgence, as innovative Argentine winemakers recognized that the grape had the potential to compete in the international market. Today, Malbec is not just the face of Argentina’s wine industry but a key driver of its growth.
“Within 20 years, Malbec plantations had tripled,” says Barnes, “and, once again, Malbec became Argentina’s most planted grape variety with over 44,000 hectares planted today. One in five vines in Argentina are, in fact, Malbec.”
Elevating Argentine Malbec
During his early days in Argentina, Hobbs became intrigued by a nearly century-old Malbec vineyard, Lunlunta, owned by the Catena family. Even though Nicolás Catena was skeptical about investing in Malbec, Hobbs persisted. With the help of Catena's head viticulturist, he began experimenting with a section of the vineyard.
The first Malbec Hobbs produced in 1992 from the Lunlunta vineyard caught the attention of the American press, who had originally come to Argentina to taste Chardonnay. This unexpected interest in the grape ultimately led to the founding of Viña Cobos, established by Hobbs with local partners Luis Barraud and Andrea Marchiori. They reasoned that if the Lunlunta Malbec could reflect a unique sense of place, why couldn’t other vineyards do the same?
Over the next two decades, Hobbs and his team at Viña Cobos sought out top high-altitude vineyards (above 3,000 feet) in two of Mendoza's most distinguished wine regions: Luján de Cuyo, where the winery sits, and the Uco Valley. Many people believed the high-altitude areas were too cold for viticulture, but early pioneers like Hobbs proved them wrong.
However, these high-altitude vineyards became a game-changer for Argentine Malbec. One key benefit of higher elevation is the wider day-night temperature range. Intense daytime sunlight enhances sugar development and complex flavors, while cool nights preserve the grapes' natural acidity. This unique climate, combined with diverse soil compositions, results in wines with distinct regional characteristics.
In Luján de Cuyo, the sand and clay-loam soils tend to make wines of greater structure and concentration, with rich fruit flavors and smooth tannins. In Valle de Uco, the even higher altitudes and rocky, calcareous soils produce wines with brighter acidity, more floral notes, and a pronounced mineral character.
The success of the Lunlunta Malbec sparked widespread interest in Argentine Malbec, particularly those made solely from Malbec. “During the mid-to-late 1990s, a handful of Malbec advocates had released single-variety Malbec wines that caught the attention of the international market,” says Barnes. “Altos Las Hormigas, Catena Zapata, Nieto Senetiner, Viña Cobos, and Achaval Ferrer were among the most important brands that began exporting Malbec early on in the game.”
Argentine wine producers, especially in Mendoza where about 85% of the country's Malbec is planted, started investing heavily in Malbec production. They replaced flood irrigation with drip systems, improving grape quality. Winery upgrades, new planting locations, and refined winemaking techniques, including extended maceration and oak aging, have enhanced the wines' quality. Argentine Malbec has evolved from the characterless, often oxidized blends of the 1980s and earlier to the bolder, fruitier styles of the '90s and to today's fresher, terroir-reflective wines.
Precision farming is crucial to this new approach. "We study soil and microclimate and create maps that help to optimize resources," says Macarena Esteller of Viña Cobos. "This method allows us to manage different soil types separately, producing wines that express each site's unique qualities. Stony soils yield concentrated grapes with aggressive tannins, while deeper soils produce softer tannins," Esteller explains. We blend these complementary components in our wines."
In the cellar, the team follows a minimalist approach to winemaking. They ferment exclusively with indigenous yeasts and do not filter or fine the wines, which Hobbs believes can alter a wine's character. Additionally, only small amounts of sulfur dioxide are added during the process.
Challenging Perceptions: Premium Malbec in a Value-Driven Market
Despite Viña Cobos' reputation for top-quality wines, Hobbs faces a persistent market challenge: many consumers consider Malbec an inexpensive, everyday wine. Jeff Jenssen, co-author of the book Red Wine, The Comprehensive Guide to the 50 Essential Varieties & Styles, says this is unfortunate since “there are some very well-made, quality Malbecs grown in respected vineyards and produced by talented winemakers.”
This widespread perception stems from Argentine Malbec's success in the global market during the late 1990s and early 2000s when rich, fruit-forward versions were marketed as affordable alternatives to established red wines. While these wines were a step up in quality from Argentina’s bulk wines of the past, they lacked the complexity and terroir expression that Hobbs and other premium producers were striving to achieve.
"People often forget Malbec's place as a noble grape," Hobbs says, "and how it can reflect a sense of place in the same way as other heralded varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon."
Before it became Argentina's flagship variety, Malbec played a crucial role in the prestigious wines of Bordeaux. It was widely planted before the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century. It was also the primary grape in the "Black Wine" of Cahors, France, favored by French nobility for centuries.
With this noble heritage in mind, Viña Cobos offers a range of price points, starting with the approachable Felino line, whose Malbec retails for around $18. On the higher end, at the ‘Grand Cru’ level, are the Vineyard Designate wines priced at $160 per bottle. They are crafted from single vineyards owned by the winery and come from three specific estates: Hobbs Estate in Luján de Cuyo and Chañares and Zingaretti, two properties in the Uco Valley. The winery’s flagship wine, Cobos, is priced at $350 and is notable for being South America's first 100-point wine, awarded by critic James Suckling.
To tackle the challenge of selling higher-priced Malbecs, Hobbs and his team reach out to consumers through tastings and winery visits. They also collaborate with sommeliers and wine educators to help spread the word and place their wines in top global markets. "We are currently one of the highest-priced Malbecs listed on La Place de Bordeaux with our Cobos Malbec, which launched on the marketplace in 2022," Hobbs notes.
Looking To The Future
“I think we are seeing a continuation of a positive trend,” says Hobbs when asked about his vision for the future of Argentine Malbec. “The focus on cooler, higher elevation sites and a more restrained use of new oak results in more nuanced and balanced Malbecs that better reflect their terroirs.”
What’s impressive is how Argentina has transformed into a leading producer and exporter of Malbec in less than three decades. The country's Malbec continues to evolve, with various flavors and styles that reflect new locations and improved viticultural and winemaking techniques.
Hobbs is also a proponent of other red varieties in Mendoza, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. "Not only do these wines stand beautifully on their own,” he says, “but they also offer intriguing possibilities when blended with Malbec. It is exciting to see consumers across the globe realize this expanded potential of Argentina in producing fine wines.”
As Argentine Malbec thrives, it tells the story of the region's rocky past and bright future. Paul Hobbs has been a key player in this transformation, helping to turn Malbec from a struggling grape into a global favorite. By focusing on quality and Mendoza's diverse terroirs, Hobbs stays true to his original vision of bringing out the best in what nature provides.
Many thanks to Paul Hobbs and the Viña Cobos team for hosting me in Mendoza.
Read more on Paul Hobbs at Grape Collective.com:
Dorothy Gaiter's interview with Paul Hobbs.
Christopher Barnes' interview with Lynne Fahy, winemaker of Paul Hobbs' Finger Lakes Winery, Hillick & Hobbs.
