Strong words from wine critics Time Atkin MW and Guy Woodward regarding the en primeur system in Bordeaux, and not just for the 2013 vintage. Harpers quotes Woodward as calling it a "con" and a "sham". And Atkin is uneasy about how ratings (his own and those of others) based on early barrel samples impact price. He took to Twitter to make an announcement:
I’ve taken the decision not to release my scores until most prices have been released. Line in the sand. #bdx13
— Tim Atkin (@Timatkin) April 2, 2014
But (apologies to Pulp Fiction) allow Neal Martin of The Wine Advocate to retort. Regarding the complicity of wine critics in driving up prices, Martin sees his role as more of a consumer, well, advocate:
@Timatkin How about if primeur scores are average or low. Doesn't that potentially temper release prices and forewarn consumers?
— Neal Martin (@nealmartin) April 4, 2014
@Timatkin If anything, not releasing scores perpetuates the system. No good telling the wine is bad after someone has bought it. No?
— Neal Martin (@nealmartin) April 4, 2014
Where do you stand on the role of wine critics and rating Bordeaux en primeur? Are you uneasy about the relationship between a critic's score and the price of a wine? Especially a wine that isn't even in a bottle yet? Have your say in the comments. And for a bit of levity, Martin does have the best tweet ever regarding 100 points and 2013 Bordeaux:
@LHKfinewines @Timatkin I did score 100 points...but that was the sum total of the Left Bank ;-) #bdx13
— Neal Martin (@nealmartin) April 4, 2014
